Research Articles

There have been many scientific studies on the use of oils as skin care and we use this research to formulate the best oil, lotion and creams we can. We've put a few links to some very interesting articles that do not appear on the ingredients references which we hope you'll find as interesting as we have.

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils

Plant oils have been utilized for a variety of purposes throughout history, with their integration into foods, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical products. They are now being increasingly recognized for their effects on both skin diseases and the restoration of cutaneous homeostasis. This article briefly reviews the available data on biological influences of topical skin applications of some plant oils (olive oil, olive pomace oil, sunflower seed oil, coconut oil, safflower seed oil, argan oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, borage oil, jojoba oil, oat oil, pomegranate seed oil, almond oil, bitter apricot oil, rose hip oil, German chamomile oil, and shea butter). Thus, it focuses on the therapeutic benefits of these plant oils according to their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects on the skin, promotion of wound healing and repair of skin barrier.

Reference Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/

Fatty Acids Composition of Vegetable Oils and Its Contribution to Dietary Energy Intake and Dependence of Cardiovascular Mortality on Dietary Intake of Fatty Acids

Characterizations of fatty acids composition in % of total methylester of fatty acids (FAMEs) of fourteen vegetable oils—safflower, grape, silybum marianum, hemp, sunflower, wheat germ, pumpkin seed, sesame, rice bran, almond, rapeseed, peanut, olive, and coconut oil—were obtained by using gas chromatography (GC). Saturated (SFA), monounsaturated (MUFA) and polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), palmitic acid (C16:0; 4.6%–20.0%), oleic acid (C18:1; 6.2%–71.1%) and linoleic acid (C18:2; 1.6%–79%), respectively, were found predominant. The nutritional aspect of analyzed oils was evaluated by determination of the energy contribution of SFAs (19.4%–695.7% ERDI), PUFAs (10.6%–786.8% ERDI), n-3 FAs (4.4%–117.1% ERDI) and n-6 FAs (1.8%–959.2% ERDI), expressed in % ERDI of 1 g oil to energy recommended dietary intakes (ERDI) for total fat (ERDI—37.7 kJ/g). The significant relationship between the reported data of total fat, SFAs, MUFAs and PUFAs intakes (% ERDI) for adults and mortality caused by coronary heart diseases (CHD) and cardiovascular diseases (CVD) in twelve countries has not been confirmed by Spearman’s correlations.

Reference Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4490476/

Medicinal and therapeutic potential of Seabuckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.)

This review explores the medicinal and therapeutic applications of Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) in curtailing different types of acute as well as chronic maladies. The plant is being used in different parts of the world for its nutritional and medicinal properties.Sea buckthorn based preparations have been extensively exploited in folklore treatment of slow digestion, stomach malfunctioning, cardiovascular problems, liver injury, tendon and ligament injuries, skin diseases and ulcers. In the recent years, medicinal and pharmacological activities of Sea buckthorn have been well investigated using various in vitro and in vivo models as well as limited clinical trials.Sea buckthorn has been scientifically analyzed and many of its traditional uses have been established using several biochemical and pharmacological studies. Various pharmacological activities such as cytoprotective, anti-stress, immunomodulatory, hepatoprotective, radioprotective, anti-atherogenic, anti-tumor, anti-microbial and tissue regeneration have been reported.It is clear that Sea buckthorn is an important plant because of its immense medicinal and therapeutic potential. However, several knowledge gaps identified in this paper would give impetus to new academic and R&D activities especially for the development of Sea buckthorn based herbal medicine and nutraceuticals.

Reference Link: http://www.seabuckthornaustralia.com.au/files/4314226

Antibacterial Activity of Ocimum gratissimum (Cajeput) L. Essential Oil

The essential oil (EO) of Ocimum gratissimum inhibited Staphylococcus aureus at a concentration of 0.75 mg/ml. The minimal inhibitory concentrations (MICs) for Shigella flexineri, Salmonella enteritidis, Escherichia coli, Klebsiella sp., and Proteus mirabilis were at concentrations ranging from 3 to 12 microg/ml. The endpoint was not reached for Pseudomonas aeruginosa (>=24 mg/ml). The MICs of the reference drugs used in this study were similar to those presented in other reports. The minimum bactericidal concentration of EO was within a twofold dilution of the MIC for this organism. The compound that showed antibacterial activity in the EO of O. gratissimum was identified as eugenol and structural findings were further supported by gas chromatography/mass spectra retention time data. The structure was supported by spectroscopic methods.

Reference Link: https://www.researchgate.net/

Inhibitory Effect of Cycloartenol Ferulate, a Component of Rice Bran, on Tumor Promotion in Two-Stage Carcinogenesis in Mouse Skin

Inhibitory activity against 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate (TPA)-induced inflammation in mice was observed in the methanol extract of rice bran and γ-oryzanol. The active components of rice bran, sitosterol ferulate, 24-methylcholesterol ferulate, cycloartenol ferulate and 24-methylenecycloartanol ferulate inhibited markedly the TPA-induced inflammation in mice. The 50% inhibitory does of these compounds for TPA-induced inflammation was 0.2-0.3 mg/ear. Furthermore, cycloartenol ferulate markedly inhibited the tumor-promoting effect of TPA in 7, 12-dimethylbenz[a]anthracene-initiated mice.

Reference Link: https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/bpb1993

Resurgence of Safflower ( Carthamus tinctorius L.) Utilization: A Global View

The growing demand for vegetable fats as food purposes has entailed a considerable expansion of oilseed crops all over the world. Although safflower ranks last in oilseed crops, it includes some valuable characteristics that have made the species famous throughout the centuries, in particular as a multi-purpose oilseed, medicinal plant and a source of carthamin, a dye. For human nutrition, safflower oil has a nutritional value that similar to olive oil; moreover, the high oleic type is very suitable for hypo-cholesterol diets, for frying and in the preparation of frozen food. The high linoleic type may also used for industrial purposes such as preparation of varnishes, the production of biodiesel and alcohols to use in producing surfactants. Safflower is also a source of important chemicals like a-tocopherol and carthamin. In this review, after illustrating the uses of safflower as a oil and medicinal plant and the major characteristics of the oil, seed and flower, a brief analysis of world-wide current situation and future prospects of safflower utilization are presented.

Reference Link: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/26558518

Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils as Used in Cosmetics

The CIR Expert Panel assessed the safety of 244 Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils as used in cosmetics. Oils are used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for their skin conditioning, occlusive, emollient, and moisturizing properties. Since many of these oils are edible, and their systemic toxicity potential low, the review of the Panel focused on their potential dermal effects. The Expert Panel concluded that the 244 Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils are safe as used in cosmetics.

Reference Link: http://www.beauty-review.nl/

Taxonomic perspective of plant species yielding vegetable oils used in cosmetics and skin care products

A search conducted to determine the plants yielding vegetable oils resulted in 78 plant species with potential use in cosmetics and skin care products. The taxonomic position of these plant species is described with a description of vegetable oils from these plants and their use in cosmetics and skin care products. These species belonged to 74 genera and 45 plant families and yielded 79 vegetable oils. Family Rosaceae had highest number of vegetable oil yielding species (five species). Most of the species were distributed in two families (Anacardiaceae and Asteraceae) containing four species each, followed by seven families (Boraginaceae, Brassicaceae, Clausiaceae, Cucurbitaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Fabaceae and Lamaceae) containing three species each of oil yielding plants. Five families (Apiaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Malvaceae, Rubiaceae and Sapotaceae) have two species each of vegetable oil yielding plants. Two monocotyledonous families Arecaceae and Poaceae contained three species each of oil yielding plants. Remaining 28 vegetable oil yielding species were distributed in 28 plant families, which included two species of gymnosperms distributed in family Cupressaceae and Pinaceae. These vegetable oils are natural and can be used as the base for mixing ones own aromatherapy massage or bath oil, or if preferred can be used as ready blended massage oils or bath oils.

Reference Link: http://www.academicjournals.org/journal/AJB/

Hair Growth-Promoting Effects of Lavender Oil in C57BL/6 Mice

The purpose of this study was to determine the hair growth effects of lavender oil (LO) in female C57BL/6 mice. The experimental animals were divided into a normal group (N: saline), a vehicle control group (VC: jojoba oil), a positive control group (PC: 3% minoxidil), experimental group 1 (E1: 3% LO), and experimental group 2 (E2: 5% LO). Test compound solutions were topically applied to the backs of the mice (100 μL per application), once per day, 5 times a week, for 4 weeks. The changes in hair follicle number, dermal thickness, and hair follicle depth were observed in skin tissues stained with hematoxylin and eosin, and the number of mast cells was measured in the dermal and hypodermal layers stained with toluidine blue. PC, E1, and E2 groups showed a significantly increased number of hair follicles, deepened hair follicle depth, and thickened dermal layer, along with a significantly decreased number of mast cells compared to the N group. These results indicated that LO has a marked hair growth-promoting effect, as observed morphologically and histologically. There was no significant difference in the weight of the thymus among the groups. However, both absolute and relative weights of the spleen were significantly higher in the PC group than in the N, VC, E1, or E2 group at week 4. Thus, LO could be practically applied as a hair growth-promoting agent.

Reference Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4843973/

Commercial Essential Oils as Potential Antimicrobials to Treat Skin Diseases

Essential oils are one of the most notorious natural products used for medical purposes. Combined with their popular use in dermatology, their availability, and the development of antimicrobial resistance, commercial essential oils are often an option for therapy. At least 90 essential oils can be identified as being recommended for dermatological use, with at least 1500 combinations. This review explores the fundamental knowledge available on the antimicrobial properties against pathogens responsible for dermatological infections and compares the scientific evidence to what is recommended for use in common layman's literature. Also included is a review of combinations with other essential oils and antimicrobials. The minimum inhibitory concentration dilution method is the preferred means of determining antimicrobial activity. While dermatological skin pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus have been well studied, other pathogens such as Streptococcus pyogenes, Propionibacterium acnes, Haemophilus influenzae, and Brevibacterium species have been sorely neglected. Combination studies incorporating oil blends, as well as interactions with conventional antimicrobials, have shown that mostly synergy is reported. Very few viral studies of relevance to the skin have been made. Encouragement is made for further research into essential oil combinations with other essential oils, antimicrobials, and carrier oils.

Reference Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/

Essential Oil from Berries of Lebanese Juniperus excelsa M. Bieb Displays Similar Antibacterial Activity to Chlorhexidine but Higher Cytocompatibility with Human Oral Primary Cells.

Chlorhexidine (CHX), one of the most effective drugs administered for periodontal treatment, presents collateral effects including toxicity when used for prolonged periods; here, we have evaluated the bactericidal potency and the cytocompatibility of Juniperus excelsa M. Bieb essential oil (EO) in comparison with 0.05% CHX. The EO was extracted from berries by hydrodistillation and components identified by gas chromatography and mass spectrometry. Bacterial inhibition halo analysis, quantitative cell viability 2,3-bis(2-methoxy-4-nitro-5-sulphophenyl)-5-[(phenyl amino) carbonyl]-2H-tetrazolium hydroxide assay (XTT), and colony forming unit (CFU) count were evaluated against the two biofilm formers Aggregatibacter actinomycetemcomitans and Streptococcus mutans. Finally, cytocompatibility was assessed with human primary gingival fibroblasts (HGF) and mucosal keratinocytes (HK). The resulting EO was mainly composed of monoterpene hydrocarbons and oxygenated monoterpenes. An inhibition halo test demonstrated that both bacteria were sensitive to the EO; XTT analysis and CFU counts confirmed that 10-fold-diluted EO determined a statistically significant (p < 0.05) reduction in bacteria count and viability towards both biofilm and planktonic forms in a comparable manner to those obtained with CHX. Moreover, EO displayed higher cytocompatibility than CHX (p < 0.05). In conclusion, EO exhibited bactericidal activity similar to CHX, but a superior cytocompatibility, making it a promising antiseptic alternative to CHX.

Reference Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26007187

Pomegranate seed oil: A comprehensive review on its therapeutic effects

Pomegranate, Punica granatum L. (Punicaceae), as a medicinal and nutritional ancient fruit, has an outstanding medical history throughout the world. Each of compartments of pomegranate has interesting pharmacological activity. Juice, leaf, flower, and peels of pomegranate possess potent antioxidant properties, while juice, peel and oil are all weakly estrogenic activity. Pomegranate seeds have ethnomedical indication and high conjugated α-linolenic acids (CLn) contents. Pomegranate seed oil (PSO) with high amount of punicic acid (PA), a conjugated isomer of α-linolenic acid, has variety of pharmacological properties. The main properties are as follows; antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, nephroprotective, hepatoprotective, neuroprotective, anti-cancer, enhancing the immune system, enhancing carbohydrate metabolism and reducing insulin resistance. Based on some studies, effects of PSO on lipid profile are controversial and consistency of data is rare to find yet. Therefore, this review is aimed to highlight the PSO’s composition and beneficial effects on human health and represent the mechanisms involved in its action.

Reference Link: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/296419545_Pomegranate_seed_oil_A_comprehensive_review_on_its_therapeutic_effects

Topical Anti-infammatory Potential oF Pumpkin (Cucurbita pepoL.) Seed Oil on Acute and Chronic Skin Infammation in Mice

In±ammation is an adaptive response that is triggered by noxious stimuli and conditions, which involves interactions amongst many cell types and mediators, and underlies many pathological process. Unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs) can in±uence in±ammation through a variety of mechanisms, and have been indicated as alternative anti-in±am-matory agents to treat several in±ammatory skin disorders. Pumpkin seed oil (PSO) is rich in UFAs, but its topical anti-in±ammatory properties have not been investigated. Therefore, the aim of this paper was to evaluate the effects of PSO on acute and chronic cutaneous in±ammation experimental models.

Reference Link: https://www.redalyc.org/html/2890/289031817074/

Chemical Composition and Physicochemical Properties of Pumpkin Seeds (Cucurbita pepo Subsp. pepo Var. Styriaka) Grown in Iran

Chemical composition and physicochemical properties of pumpkin seeds and fatty acids of their oil were determined. It was found that the seeds contained 41.59% oil and 25.4%protein. Moisture, crude fiber, total ash, and carbohydrate contents were 5.2%, 5.34%, 2.49%, and 25.19%, respectively. The specific gravity, dynamic viscosity, and refractive index of the extracted pumpkin seed oil were 0.915, 93.659 cP, and 1.4662, respectively. Acid value (mg KOH/g oil), peroxide value (meq O2/kg oil), iodine value (g I2/100 g oil), saponification number (mg KOH/ g oil), and unsaponifiable matter content (%) of the extracted oil from pumpkin seeds were 0.78, 0.39, 10.85, 104.36, 190.69, and 5.73, respectively. Total phenolics compounds (mg gallic acid/kg oil), total tocopherols (mg α-tocopherol/kg oil), total sterols (%), and waxes (%) were 66.27, 882.65, 1.86, and 1.58, respectively. Specific extinctions at two wavelengths of 232 nm (K232) and 270 nm (K270) and R-value (K232/K270) were 3.80, 3.52 and 0.74, respectively. Gas chromatographic analysis of the pumpkin seed oil showed that the linoleic (39.84%), oleic (38.42%), palmitic (10.68%) and stearic (8.67%) acids were the major fatty acids. Compared with other vegetable oils, the present study revealed that pumpkin seed oil can be a valuable source of edible oil.

Reference Link: http://lrr.modares.ac.ir/article-23-9897-en.pdf

Acute methyl salicylate toxicity complicating herbal skin treatment for psoriasis

We present an interesting case of salicylism arising from the use of methyl salicylate as part of a herbal skin cream for the treatment of psoriasis. A 40‐year‐old man became quite suddenly and acutely unwell after receiving treatment from an unregistered naturopath. Methyl salicylate (Oil of Wintergreen) is widely available in many over the counter topical analgesic preparations and Chinese medicated oils. Transcutaneous absorption of the methyl salicylate was enhanced in this case due to the abnormal areas of skin and use of an occlusive dressing. The presence of tinnitus, vomiting, tachypnoea and typical acid/base disturbance allowed a diagnosis of salicylate toxicity to be made. Our patient had decontaminated his skin prior to presentation, limiting the extent of toxicity and was successfully treated with rehydration and establishment of good urine flow.

Reference Link: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1442-2026.2002.00316.x

Tamanu oil and skin active properties: from traditional to moderncosmetic uses

Calophyllum inophyllumL. (Calophyllaceae), locally called“tamanu”in French Polynesia, isan evergreen pantropical tree growing mostly along the seashores. Its barks, leaves, and fruits are still usedin traditional medicine. The oil expressed from the nuts has been also traditionally used. Tamanu oil istopically applied on skins as well as mucous membrane lesions. This oil is especially recommended toheal all kinds of skin ailments. Bioassays and different assessments of Tamanu oil revealed numerousbiological activities (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, wound healing...), so bringingscientific evidence of beneficial effects of this oil on human skin healing. Such biological propertiesmay explain the use of tamanu oil as an active cosmetic ingredient recorded as“Calophyllum inophyllumseed oil”by the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). Most of the bioactiveproperties of tamanu oil are attributed to oil composition including the presence of resinous compounds intamanu oil beside common fatty acids, which constitutes a unique characteristic of this healing oil.Actually, resinous part of tamanu oil is known to contain bioactive secondary metabolites mostlyconstitutedbyneoflavonoids including pyranocoumarin derivatives. Herein, chemical constituents andbiological properties of tamanu oil are presented with a focus of its traditional use inspiring modernvaluations related to cosmeticfield

Reference Link: https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/pdf/2018/05/ocl180019.pdf

Carvacrol, a component of thyme oil, activates PPARα and γ and suppresses COX-2 expression

Cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), the rate-limiting enzyme in prostaglandin biosynthesis, plays a key role in inﬂammation and circulatory homeostasis. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs) are ligand-dependent transcription factors belonging to the nuclear receptor super family and are involved in the control of COX-2 expression, and vice versa. Here, we show that COX-2 promoter activity was suppressed by essential oils derived from thyme, clove, rose, eucalyptus, fennel, and bergamot in cellbased transfection assays using bovine arterial endothelial cells. Moreover, from thyme oil, we identiﬁed carvacrol as a major component of the suppressor of COX-2 expression and an activator of PPARα and γ.

Reference Link: http://www.jlr.org/content/51/1/132.full.pdf+html

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